Humans’ use of clothing materials can be traced back to the Neanderthals of the Paleolithic Age. The earliest clothing materials used were animal skins, and in modern times, fiber-based clothing materials are often used. Although humans have known about using clothing materials to make clothing since ancient times, the scientific research on clothing materials and clothing began very late, especially the more systematic and systematic research only this year.
Research on the physiological and hygienic functions of clothing originates from people's requirements for cold protection and hygiene. Clothing has an important impact on human health. The germination of this idea of clothing hygiene first appeared in the skin respiration theory of the ancient Greek philosopher Empedocles. In the 19th century, natural science and medicine developed vigorously. Professor Pettenkofer, the founder of hygiene, opened a lecture on experimental hygiene at the University of Munich and began to study the important role of clothing in environmental hygiene. In 1891, Rubner, who was the former director of the Berlin Institute, published his own research results based on the work of his predecessors, establishing the foundation of clothing hygiene. He studied the warmth retention properties of clothing based on fiber characteristics and fabric structure. He introduced physiological research techniques such as skin temperature, inner clothing temperature, metabolism, etc. into his experiments, and pointed out the dangers of wearing too many and thick clothing.
Although humans have known how to wear clothes and cover their bodies for hundreds of thousands of years, it has only been more than half a century before they can truly understand the principles of clothing insulation and cold protection and establish the unique discipline of clothing hygiene. history. During World War II, all participating countries were threatened by severe cold weather. The total number of people suffering from frostbite (including freezing) exceeded 1 million, resulting in a decrease in the combat effectiveness of soldiers. The soldiers who participated in the war experienced unprecedented extreme low and high temperatures, trains, ships, airplanes and other harsh environments, which made people further aware of the important role of clothing. As a result, various countries have carried out research on people and the environment, clothing, and equipment. In particular, the hygrothermal physiological research conducted in the United States and the clothing climate research conducted in Japan have become the basic content of today's clothing hygiene.
In 1939, Henry first proposed and analyzed the heat and moisture transfer properties of textile fibers. In 1940, climatologist and physiologist P. Siple published a paper "Principles of Selecting Clothing for Severe Cold Climates", which clarified the principle of cold protection and heat insulation of clothing from the perspective of physiology and climatology, and proposed the principles of clothing. The principle of cold protection and warmth plays an important guiding role in the selection and design of clothing. In 1941, Gagge, Burtor and Bazett proposed a clothing insulation and warmth index that is related to human physiological parameters, psychological feelings and environmental conditions, that is, the quantitative unit of heat insulation in grams. Luo (clo). In 1946, Peirce and Ress proposed the thermal resistance unit Tog to measure the thermal insulation performance of fabrics or fabric layers. In 1949, the UK published the first monograph on clothing hygiene, "Thermal Regulation Physiology and Clothing Science", and in 1959 it published "Humans in Severe Cold Environments". These two books are still the basic textbooks on clothing hygiene.
Since the 1960s, with the widespread use of synthetic fibers, the comfort of clothing has attracted increasing attention. The stuffy feeling generated by the use of conventional synthetic fiber products has promoted the moisture and heat conduction of clothing. Research. In 1962, A.H. Woodcock proposed the moisture permeability index (im) of clothing, an indicator that combines both heat and moisture transfer characteristics. In the 1960s, Professor R.F. Coldmen, a famous American clothing physiologist, combined the thermal resistance and moisture permeability index of clothing, further proposed the evaporative heat dissipation efficiency index of clothing, and suggested using thermal resistance, moisture permeability index and evaporation index. The thermal efficiency index is used as a physical indicator of thermal and moisture comfort of clothing to formulate clothing standards (including comfort standards and tolerance standards) under different climate conditions, and to predict the cold and heat tolerance limits of clothing discomfort. In the late 1960s, Professor Fanger of the Technical University of Denmark established a thermal comfort equation, comfort diagram and seven-point scale system that considers six factors: the human body, clothing, and the environment. In 1970, L.Fourt and N.R.S.Hollies published "Clothing-comfort and function" in New York. In 1975, R.F. Coldmen and N.R.S.Hollies will conduct it in Washington. Important documents from the clothing thermal and moisture comfort exchange conference are compiled and published.
Since the late 1970s, research on the thermal and moisture transfer performance and thermal and moisture comfort of clothing has become more active. In addition to conducting extensive research on comfort, warmth and coldness, and wetness, we have also conducted extensive research on heat and moisture transfer using mathematical and physical methods, and used computer simulation technology to understand the complex heat and moisture interactions between people, clothing, and the environment. The exchange process is precisely calculated. In the 1980s, the hygrothermal physiology method to elucidate the regulation mechanism of human body heat and moisture began to be applied in the field of clothing research. In addition, the progress of artificial climate chamber research promoted the development of clothing hygiene.
Research on clothing style began with the sensory inspection of wool quality in 1926 and the study of the mechanical characteristics of fabrics in 1930.
In terms of testing the heat and moisture transfer performance, Ress began to use the heated plate instrument in 1941. In the 1940s and 1950s, the U.S. and Canadian armies began to develop warm-body dummies. In the 1950s, M.E. Whenlan et al. measured the evaporation resistance of the air layer and clothing materials to water vapor using the water cup method. In the late 1960s, the United States, Britain, Japan, Germany and other countries developed various sweating warm-body dummies that simulate the human body's heat and moisture state (even including exercise states) for use in heat and moisture transfer tests on clothing materials. In the early 1970s, J.H.Mecheels, Harada Takashi and others successively developed skin simulation devices or microclimate simulation devices that were more suitable for studying material properties on the basis of the thermal plate instrument in the early 1980s. , and gradually formed experimental method standards.
After the Second World War, with the reform of the university system and the rapid development of the global textile and clothing industry, foreign universities in home economics and living environment, especially in the clothing discipline, have opened clothing hygiene courses. There are also many researchers in the field of clothing science. In recent years, people have been pursuing the functionality, comfort and safety of clothing materials, which requires the assistance of multi-disciplinary research such as physiology, hygiene, meteorology, physics, fiber engineering, and environmental engineering.
Domestic research on clothing hygiene began in the 1960s. In the mid-1960s, the Military Equipment Research Institute of the General Logistics Department of the Chinese People's Liberation Army began to design and research segmented warm-body dummies and used them to comprehensively test clothing thermal resistance. The project was completed in 1980. In 1978, the Shanghai Textile Research Institute developed an elliptical cylinder thermal insulation instrument. Since the 1980s, China Textile University, Northwest Textile Institute of Technology, etc. have successively carried out extensive research. In 1980, Xia Zhengxing studied the radiation protection properties of vacuum coated textiles. In 1982, Chen Qiushui discussed the moisture permeability properties of fabrics and their testing methods. proposed the "moisture permeability index c", an evaluation index that reflects moisture permeability performance. Wang Qinghua et al. studied the relationship between air layer thickness and thermal resistance in microclimate zones. In 1984, Rao Mu, Li Yi and others developed a fabric climatometer and proposed "equivalent thermal resistance" and other evaluation indicators that comprehensively reflect the heat and moisture transfer performance of fabrics. The relationship between fabric parameters and heat and moisture transfer performance was discussed, as well as the heat and moisture transfer performance of fabrics when the directions of heat flow and moisture flow were inconsistent, which provided theoretical basis and experimental data for the PLA General Logistics Department to adopt the PLA military uniform thermal insulation standards in 1985. In 1986, Wang Yunxiang, Zhao Shujing and others developed a fabric thermal transfer testing device and conducted dynamic tests on the heat and moisture transfer of fabrics. In 1987, Rao Mu and Shi Meiwu developed the Fabric Microclimate Type II. Yu Fenghua regarded clothing materials as porous bodies and systematically discussed the theories of thermal conductivity, convection, fluid diffusion, capillary flow, evaporation, and condensation. Zhang Weiyuan discussed Understand the moisture permeability mechanism of fabrics. In 1988, Rao Mu and Wang Xiaodong developed a fabric heating and cooling instrument. In 1989, Yu Jianyong and Zhao Shujing further studied the dynamic characteristics of heat and moisture transfer and discussed the influence of fiber arrangement direction and void ratio on thermal resistance. Gong Wenzhong developed a fabric moisture transfer and heat and moisture dynamic transfer tester and discussed the fabric and its transmission. relationship between heat and moisture transfer performance. In 1991, Qiu Guanxiong and others developed a fabric thermal and moisture performance tester. In 1992, Feng Enxin and others discussed the thermal insulation effect of space cotton insulation wadding. In 1995, Chen Dongsheng et al. used gray equations to give a mathematical description of the moisture permeability process of fabrics. In 1999, my country's first Munitions University was established, which will further study the relationship between clothing, people, and the environment from the perspective of military supplies. In the same year, Chen Yuhong and others published the article "Research on the Microclimate Measurement System in Clothing", which provided advanced testing methods for the scientific evaluation of the climate inside clothing.
In short, research on clothing materials and clothing comfort is very active at home and abroad, and considerable progress has been made in relevant testing methods, testing instruments and evaluation indicators. However, since textiles are an aggregate composed of fibers, air and water, the structures of the fiber aggregates are diverse, and the internal structures of the textile fibers themselves are diverse and heterogeneous. The proportion of conductive convection and radiation heat transfer in the sensible heat transfer process changes with the textile. The structure changes depending on the environmental conditions of use. The moisture transfer process is accompanied by the transfer of latent heat and phase changes. In addition, due to the cross effect caused by the simultaneous transfer of heat and moisture and the surface effect caused by the huge specific surface area of the fiber aggregate, the heat transfer of textiles Research on moisture transfer problems is very difficult.
At present, most foreign clothing-related universities offer clothing hygiene courses, and clothing hygiene has formed a relatively complete system abroad. my country's clothing education started late. In order to establish a complete system of clothing science and clothing pedagogy, it is urgent to develop and improve my country's clothing hygiene curriculum system.